Kuncir Sathya Viku

He laughs a lot. Like a free spirit. And the lost generation with no strings attached. Kuncir Sathya Vikur is a young, contemporary Balinese artist whose traditional roots are transformed into pop art. “Sorry, I don’t have a sketchbook to show you. Everything just happens here on the final canvas and I let it flow”. He uses a traditional Balinese colouring technique called sigar, the selection of contrasting pop-cartoon-like colours.

"Garden of Edan" series inspired by Hieronymos Bosch "Garden of Earthly Delights" (Edan means crazy in Javanese)
“Garden of Edan” series inspired by Hieronymos Bosch “Garden of Earthly Delights” (Edan means crazy in Javanese)

Kuncir experimented a little with bamboo pens and ink, but soon moved on to modern pens and brushes. He has a very small studio in Tabanan, an average Balinese mini-apartment converted into an artist’s studio, paint-stained tape on the wall, beer bottles left over from last night’s party, a couple of assistants smoking vapors and colouring the large canvas drawings.

Having visited many masters of the older generation who grew up in Bali before electricity, it’s quite a shock to meet this new generation after the rise of mass tourism. “It is crazy what is happening in Bali now. We are in the middle of a magnetic field”. His inspiration is no longer the epic wars of the Mahabharata, but those of the present day. On this bumpy road to the future, he lost his faith. “I’m just a human being. No strings attached to this religion thing”.

"Un-taat citizen. sebuah konsep berkewarganegaraan",  black and white artwork by Kuncir Sathya Viku
“Un-taat citizen. sebuah konsep berkewarganegaraan”, artwork by Kuncir Sathya Viku

But it all started very differently. He is the son of a Balinese priest (Balian) who was passionate about supporting his child’s journey into the arts. Kuncir attended traditional dance classes and learnt gamelan. His father noticed his son’s talent in art and taught him to draw the magical signs of rerajahan. His son learnt all about it and was soon drawing the visuals, his father adding the sacred mantras. But then modern life kicks in.

What is No Longer Sacred

Growing up in the suburbs, the kids were into skateboards and rock music. “My mum and dad worked for a government thing.” Not a peasant’s life. “For me, it is no longer sacred.” But what is “it”? Kuncir refers to the rerajahan, for example. But it is also nature, the traditional way of life. The new generation sees rice fields being turned into concrete buildings, with foreign investment, while most Balinese families remain poor. So this is the new Mahabharata war, but with fewer heroes. “So I learned to draw rerajahan and noticed its similarity to comics. It is a kind of pop art, popular folk art. Kuncir studied at the Art Institute in Denpasar. “I saw a lot of urban art during my studies.”

artwork by Kuncir Sathya Viku, "Garden of Edan" series inspired by Hieronymos Bosch "Garden of Earthly Delights" (Edan means crazy in Javanese)
“Garden of Edan” series “Everybody wants to cancel everybody because we live in garden Edan”

“But Lempad was also one of my inspirations. Clear lines, single figures, satire, gestures”. Lempad began this style during his friendship with Walter Spies, a Western artist who encouraged him (and sold his work for good money). Spies brought Lempad paper for the first time, which was previously unknown in Bali and a good trading commodity, as opposed to the sculptural architecture that Lempad had previously focused on. The hype about Balinese art was a bit funny for Lempad, it suited his satirical spirit. The same is true of Kuncir today. The satirical element goes deeper, back to the Wayang Kulit theatre and the popular comic characters in it, the Panakawan. They are a key element in Wayang Kulit.

A Clownish Translation

The gods and heroes speak an old Javanese dialect that hardly anyone understands anymore, and their divine part of the story is highly ritualised. The clowns are the translators, translating not only into today’s language, but more importantly into today’s life, often vulgar and surprising, with satirical wit. They are like magical time travellers, immersed in ancient history and at the same time witnesses of contemporary life, connecting the two worlds. Going deeper, there is a satirical aspect even in the gods and monsters, for their facial expressions are artfully exaggerated, highly expressionistic ancient pop art – an unsurpassed superlative of its kind. An energy that reaches deep into the human soul and beyond.

The Wayang Kulit theatre is also the origin of the Balinese painting style, Kamasan. Clear black lines, figurative, narrative, dramatic, sometimes surreal and grotesque.

Title: "Overcrowded made us  got kérek" - black and white artwork by Kuncir Sathya Viku
“Overcrowded made us got kérek” – artwork by Kuncir Sathya Viku

“You are much more spiritual than you think,” I said to Kuncir. He admits how deeply rooted he is in these old traditions, “it’s still in my DNA”, but at the same time he is super sceptical about ‘spirituality’ so corrupted by Western mass tourism, but also sceptical from within Balinese belief. So he is a romantic disbeliever.

work in progress by artwork by Kuncir Sathya Viku, Juli 2024
Work in progress by artwork by Kuncir Sathya Viku, Juli 2024

There is still a world of interwoven spirits in his work. It is an It is an out-of-balance balance. Reconnecting. Dissolving. Reconnecting. “My generation struggles with anxiety. I think it’s a result of capitalism.” The power of foreign money devalues local identity. “So it is no longer sacred. I like to make fun of it.”

To Live Means to Act

Young people in Bali are now looking for jobs on cruise ships. “To live means to act, we can’t just stay under the Bodhi tree like Siddharta Gautama.” The new generation is changing, “and they are becoming consumers”. Inspired by Hieronymus Bosch’s “Garden of Earthly Delights” he created the Garden of Edan series. Edan means crazy in Javanese language. “In Hinduism, this era where we are living in is called Kaliyuga, the last and the worst in the cycle of the world”.

Every time Kuncir tries to cut his strings attached to tradition, he renews them in a strange, unintended way. His work explodes with a different kind of spiritual energy. Sorry, mission failed – in a good way for an artist.

"Natural Stupidity", artwork by Kuncir Sathya Viku
“Natural Stupidity (last stage before advent of artificial stupidity)” , artwork by Kuncir Sathya Viku, detail

Playing God an Act of Creation

And a little bit dangerous. “The artist is like playing God….There is nothing wrong with creation,” he says. . So he is a kind of dalang. The puppeteer who does all the voices and moves all the characters. “There’s nothing wrong with creation”: that’s why they had to flee to Bali in the first place, a few hundred years ago. Exile on the island of a thousand gods. Coming home.


"I leb myself" - artwork by Kuncir Sathya Viku
“I leb myself” – artwork by Kuncir Sathya Viku

Thanks, Bruce!

Thanks, Bruce !

Meeting an iconic illustrator of Bali

by Joo Peter

When I first came to Bali  twenty years ago,  two iconic authors have introduced me to Balinese culture. Fred B. Eiseman’s bestseller “Sekala and Niskala” (which translates as “the visible and invisible world”) and Bruce Granquist, an illustrator, mapping artist and writer  who uniquely depicts and explains Bali’s complex culture. I didn’t know his name for many years, but his illustrations in many collaborative books always appealed to me.

I was amazed by his hand-painted map of Bali, so helpful in the old days before Google map. The beauty of the map made me curious to travel and discover the island on the small country roads and this watercolour artwork was perfectly usable. What an achievement and lasting magic.

Now that he has published a book summarising his legacy, “Mapping Bali”, I visited Bruce in his studio in North Bali.

Below: The artist unrolls the original hand-painted map of Bali

Bruce also designed a map of Ubud. I used it to explore the area in the old days.

Below: The original map for my first explorations leads from Ubud to Tampak Siring in the right corner.

Bruce Granquist, born in Chicago in 1958, came to Bali in 1986, around the time the first telephone arrived in Ubud. It was not until the 1970s that the first light bulb and electricity reached Ubud. Bruce Granquist’s long-term map project was first published in the 90s. Bali has changed a lot since then. Below is a comparison of the Ubud area in 1985 and 2024 with historical satellite images provided by Google.

Bruce didn’t have Google Maps in 1986. By chance, he came into possession of the blueprints of the original 1928 Dutch topographical maps of Bali. “I arranged the charts on my floor, the complete map of Bali filled my whole room”. The 1928 Dutch plans were very detailed, but they didn’t show roads, just paths. Bruce Granquist started researching on the ground to see which paths had become roads. By the use of watercolour he began to create a map with a soul.

It took many years to hand-paint the complete map of Bali. After starting the project in 1986, the map was finally printed in 1999. The 10000 copies are sold out.

A map with a soul: the close-up of the map shows the artistic work of fine layers of colour, applied with paintbrush and toothbrush.

In 1986, the area around Mount Batur was still sparsely populated, as the great volcanic eruption of 1963, which killed around 1500 people, had only been two decades ago. The Bali Aga village of Trunyan could only be reached by boat across Lake Batur (small village on the right). A comparison of satellite images from 1985 and 2024 shows the massive changes since then.

The south has seen the biggest changes since Bruce started his map project in the 80s.

Image 19-3-24 at 9.15 AM (1)

Below: Comparison between 1986 and 2024

When Bruce Granquist first came to Bali in the 1980s, the population of Denpasar was about 150,000 – today it’s 1.3 million.

Below: Kuta and West coast North of Kuta 1985 and 2023

I visited Bruce Granquist at his home in North Bali, where Bali hasn’t changed that much in the last 40 years.

Me, Bruce and his wife in the garden of his house enjoying rambutan fruit from his garden.

He showed me the first sketches of his map projects

Bruce does much more than maps, of course. Most people will remember his excellent illustrations of Bali’s culture, architecture, flora and fauna. The new book “Mapping Bali” showcases his work over the decades.

The attention to detail and the use of colour put a spell on me.

His new book, Mapping Bali, is also an insight into the process behind his work.

Bruce Granquist is a messenger and translator of Balinese culture. “When I start working, I always remind myself: it’s not about me.” He describes a kind of trance in the working process: “Breathe in – breathe out”. Getting into the flow of the marathon work of detail and precision.

And Bruce Granquist is a writer too. Of course he is! This is part of the intense research that goes into every subject he works on. So “Mapping Bali” is also a great warm-hearted read about the culture, spirituality and mentality of Bali.

Today, Bruce also makes abstract art, to balance his equilibrium. In the last years, writing has become more important. After four years of research, interviews with artists, collectors and historians, he published a book on Balinese art from Batuan: “Inventing Art – The Paintings of Bali Batuan”.

below: Page of the book showing a detail of a Batuan painting by I Made Budi

 

(article by Joo Peter, March 2024)

Discover more comparisons of past and present satellite images of Bali here

 

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Budiana – art from the heart of Bali

Budiana lives in a typical Balinese family compound in the old royal village of Ubud – pavilions in a garden full of intricate handmade art, including a family temple.

In 1969, at the age of 19, Budiana began studying art in Denpasar. At that time life was still very traditional, there was no electricity on the island until the mid-seventies, and the first telephone was installed in 1985. Not far from his home lived the legendary artist I Gusti Lempad, born in 1862, who was 116 years old when he died in 1978. Budiana also learned briefly from Rudolf Bonnet (1895-1978) in his later years, from 1975-77. Along with Walter Spies, Rudolf Bonnet was one of the most influential artists in Bali in the early 20th century.

Sekala and Niskala, the visible and the invisible world – Budiana’s art is a journey into the Balinese cosmos of belief, mythology and spirituality with interwoven cultural roots. Creative dualism: light and darkness are always part of our lives, the dynamic movement of our karma, as Budiana explains in “Whirling”, the title of a recently published catalogue of some of his major works.

“Heading towards release” is the title of the painting above in the Arma Museum. Based on the Mahabharata epic, it depicts the final moment when, after all his struggles and challenges, the hero Pandava is marching towards heaven – with one last obstacle to overcome. The guardians of heaven welcome him, but not his dog. “I will not enter without my dog,” the hero replies – proving his pure heart by being willing to go to hell for his dog.

Below is an excerpt from a larger painting he has just completed in his studio, celebrating the meeting of Balinese and Chinese cultures in a dynamic relationship. The good spirit Barong (partly of Chinese dragon origin) and the witch Rangda meet in different manifestations.

Budiana has also been a mask maker (topeng), a sculptor of sarcophagi for cremation ceremonies (bull, lion, etc.), architecture and artwork for temples – involved in a lot of community work. He also has a passion for teaching.

Since his childhood he has loved the Moneky Forest deeply, he told me. Many of the sculptures in the Monkey Forest were made by him. He always enjoyed visiting the Monkey Forest, connecting with the nature there and creating sculptures inspired by the spirits of the place.

I have been visiting Bali for many years and have always been touched by the sculptures in the Monkey Forest, long before I knew who made them. The sculptures are perfectly in tune with the place where sacred temple and wild animal meet, very specific, also full of humour and joie de vivre.

Budiana masters and brilliantly combines a wide range of techniques and traditions, such as the sensitive, clear-lined black and white drawing style below…

 

 

….narrative opulence in expressive black and white …

 

…ranging to abstract techniques…

 

 

….combining it all….

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He likes to paint at night, he told me. Outside life calms down, a meditative atmosphere. Closer to a dream world, it seems.

His grey-walled studio keeps out the harsh sunlight. It’s quiet and peaceful, like a retreat, modest, no bigger than necessary. You can sense the atmosphere of very focused and disciplined work, but also the deep connection to family life in the compound outside – traditional Balinese architecture at its best, garden-like and rich in art, full of life with his children and grandchildren.

Budiana told me about his four children and twelve grandchildren, even some great-grandchildren. Now 69, he still looks as young as he did in his early fifties. He practices yoga to keep fit – and enjoys life.

Thanks for the inspiration, Budiana!

Text and photos by Joo Peter, June 2019

Dojo co-working in Bali

Dojo co-working in Canggu on Bali quickly became famous after founder Michael Craig started it a few years ago, inspired by Hubud, Balis award-winning co-working space in a bamboo architecture close to nature similar to Green School. Michael loved to bring this co-working spirit to the beach at Canngu. Located just steps away from the beach, Dojo quickly became a vibrant and inspiring place for creative people.

Haren is one of the welcome spirits at Dojo. The Japanese word Dojo goes back to buddhist martial art practicing court, a place for intense learning and meditation .

Community spirit as a key issue at Dojo, so it’s a great place to find support, feedback, collaborators.

The founder Michael Craig invests a lot of money in a superfast internet on the island, where high-speed internet isn’t a standard.

Dojos in-house pool is one of the cool features

Sometimes its getting pretty crowded. I met a lot of hard-working, very focused e-commerce people there, attracted by the weekly Meet-Up discussing e-commerce, dropshipping, FBA.

Hosting photographer & filmmaker Meet-Ups myyself, I enjoyed to connect to the creative crowd in Canggu as well as in Ubud.

March 2019 the two most famous co-working spaces on Bali , Hubud in Central Bali and Dojo at the West Coast merged. For one membership you’re free to benefit from both places.

Prices are still affordable and I hope it stays that way.  Canggu is perfect for beachlovers and surfers, but  missing a bit traditional local culture you’ll find more in Ubud area. So by the merge you get the best of both places as a member.

+++ Update 2023 +++ Dojo closed down.  The pioneer time of co-working spaces is gone and more commercialized now. Canggu changed (in my opinion) into an aggressive western enclave of fortune seakers with no connection to Balinese culture at all, continuing the destruction of Balinese culture which started with Kuta decades ago and spreading along the western coast line North

Dojo homepage

Featured Co-working spaces in Bali:

Onion – Dojo – Hubud

 

 

Follow the dolphins to Flores

If you ask me for one of my favourite trips in Indonesia, come on board the handmade wooden boats of Perama Tours and cruise for three days and nights to Flores. That’s Indonesia! Watch the carpenters shape the boats in their dock, feel the wood under your feet, watch the dolphins follow the boat near Komodo Island.

How is it that this tour opportunity is quite unknown & a secret trip? Perama has chosen a promotion that I would never have chosen: they call the package “Komodo Hunting Trip”. Well, a visit to Komodo Island is included, but the beauty of the trip goes far beyond that!

Day 1

Coming from Bali, you need to take the ferry to Sengigi in Lombok, where the Perama tour to Flores begins. On the first day, the Perama bus travels across Lombok to their landing sites, with stops along the way to give an insight into the local culture & traditions of Lombok’s ethnic groups. But the breathtaking part for me was arriving at Perama’s traditional dock where they make their Bugis Phinisi style boats and see the barefoot carpenters at work.

 

The boats in the dock look like strange pieces of furniture. Forget all the plans – it’s all in the heads & hands of the skilled carpenters.

 

After sunset, the crew lights a bonfire and the boat sets sail for Sumbawa, the island east of Lombok. You sleep on the boat – it feels like a seventies adventure. Thank God I escaped the comfort zone. And nowadays – it’s a rare experience! The captain is an Indonesian who has known the sea for decades – I have never felt so safe on a boat.

2nd day

Arriving at the Sumbawa coast in the morning, the boat stops at the small island of Satonda for some snorkelling & island visiting. The boat then heads east with a stop at Kilo Beach, Sumbawa.

Day 3

After another night, the ship reaches the archipelago around the Komodo Islands. The beauty of the archipelago in the Marine National Park around Komodo and Labuan Bajo is breathtaking. Dolphins followed our boat.

After stops at Komodo and Pink Beach, the boat continues east.

Cruising towards Flores, the sea is dotted with small islands that the ship passes like in a wonderland, the archipelago gets more and more beautiful.

The harbour town on the west coast of Flores is called Labuan Bajo. Final stop of our boat tour. In the village yo find plenty of accommodations and one-day boat tours around the marine park with snorkeling and island stops.

Touring the inner island of Flores: A motorbike is the best way to explore Flores. But beware of the winding mountain roads of Flores and the cold mountain nights.

More about soon in the next chapter, Travelling Flores.

Perama Tour link here

+++ Update 2023 +++ Perama Tours had a hard time in the Covid epidemy and discontinued many of its famous tour programs including this tour to Flores, as well as its famous ship dock. Today, Perama offices are mainly brokers for general tour offers by third parties and some old short-term programs of their own. Boat tours to Flores still exist by third parties, but a bit more pricy.

Hubud co-working space Bali

Hubud is a legend – founded in 2013 in Bali’s traditional city of Ubud, it has been ranked among the world’s top ten co-working spaces for years and has won multiple awards. Why? As one of the first co-working spaces, it was a blueprint and model of how to do it right, the balance of the best at a highly professional level.

Community spirit, skill sharing, meet-ups, inspiring talks, networking, great hospitality and close to nature, the founders knew exactly what they wanted and made it happen – in the early days of digital nomads shaping what co-working spaces should be at their best.

Its bamboo architecture was inspired by the Green School. I’m longing for such a place to work – close to nature. Barefoot in an open space, meeting people from all over the world in a highly active atmosphere of creating & sharing – paradise for me.

To be inspiring, it needs diversity. Not just business people and coders, but artists, designers, bloggers, NGO people, scientists, spiritual people and more. I love coming here and meeting all these people who are hungry to create something new, to break out of traditional stereotypes.

Diversity needs access for all: Ubud sticks to a fair pricing model that allows access to all member events for a low basic monthly membership fee. Thank you for keeping it affordable!

Hubud also brought PetchaKutcha and FuckUp nights to Ubud, sharing inspiring life stories, and was one of the pioneers in creating an international collaboration of co-working spaces (Co-working Alliance for Asia Pacific, CAAP) and a global learning community (see Hubud Global Learning).

Members’ lunches & social events promote networking.

Thanks for all and keep it going!

Visit Hubud online: Hubud.org

+++ Update +++  Hubud did not survive Covid close-down. The rent of the place was too high, Hubud had to shut down and did not open again since then. Alternative co-working spaces like Outpost try their best, but the creative vibe of this legendary pioneer co-working space is gone forever. The new co-working space Beluna in Ubud comes close to Hubud in terms of its bamboo architecture, but there are by far fewer lively skillshares and meet-ups. It feels more like a quiet retreat there. Outpost hosts international digital nomads who are more business-oriented and is less a home for a creative community like Hubud has been with its great diversity of members. You will also find fewer local Indonesian co-workers at Outpost, as the starting price for a membership is considerably high.

Meet-Up for Photographers, Filmmakers, Creatives at Hubud October 4th 2018

Thanks for coming and sharing!

We were happy to welcome Joe Yaggi, who founded Jungle Run Film productions 1993 in Bali. He worked with BBC, National Geographic and other major broadcasters of documentary film (see also Ring of Fire ). At our Meet-Up Joe talked about Bumi Hijau TV reaching millions Indonesians via local television and his Swadaya project with Rio Helmi, how they raised 25.000 Dollar to shoot a pilot in East Java soon coming out.

Videographer Brian Ebbs presented his latest documentary on the Lombok  earthquake LombokStrong and other works. We also discussed the inspiring work of our colleague Marko Randelovic.

Neyna from Jakarta showed her submissions for portfolio night in Singapore and told us about Doc.Now! workshop  in the Alleyway Café Denpasar and the upcoming MiniKino festival for short films October 6th to 13th taking place in different locations around the island. Have a look on the festival booklet here

Patricia Segovia from Peru showed us, how she started to share her travel experience on social media like her instagram supported by a community back home in Peru

Daiana Paduan from Argentina told us about her travel blog for Spanish speaking audience Dale una vuelta al mundo and how she started photographing to support her writing.

Myself as the host of the evening I presented my latest multi-media history project in my hometown Time Echo ( http://time-echo.de) , my photo reportages on South East Asian culture ( like Ogoh-Ogoh, a reportage used to pitch for a documentary on the same subject now) my Green School Documentary and the launch of the new Travel Blog Cosmic Beachcomber

For blogging, I suggested using WordPress Page builder Elementor, which I discovered on a recent talk on Hubud.

It was a joy hosting, you can catch up  with me on facebook  or on my website Joo Peter

By the way, the cover photo I shot in Jaisalmer, Rajastan.

See you next time

Joo Peter

 

Dukun Jawa – a Balinese photographer

I’m proud to present my friend  Dukun Jawa, one of the best masters of classic photography on the island.  There are photographer legends like Rio Helmi and David Metcalf working in Bali since decades, but let’s bring much more local artists to the headlines!  My friend Kan Kulak introduced me to Dukun Jawa, who lives east of Ubud in a truly Santai village.

You will spot Dukun Jawa on major traditional events, deeply rooted in and dedicated to traditional Bali culture.

Dukun Jawa runs also photography courses, contact datas below.

Dukun Jawa ( I Nyoman Pujawan )

Photographer, tour photography guide, Ubud, Bali. WA: +6282145025800
email: alassangker@yahoo.co.id www.jawanphotography.com

 

There are also a lot of young photographer artists on Bali with great potential like Epong, who is also a gifted carving artist.

Below Epong is working on a Ogoh-Ogoh head designed by Kan Kulak.

See also my photo reportage on Ogoh Ogoh on Maptia here

 

 

Bamboo Architect Nau Schlosser

20 minutes North of Ubud Nau Schlosser and Sacha Stone made their dream come true: Akasha. Hidden in the rice fields, artists are experimenting with new bamboo architecture and interior design.

Nau Schlosser is a Spanish architect working an bio architecture with all his passion, leading the art to a new level with computer aided design and collaborating with many like-minded artists.

I met Nau Schlosser contemplating there on his new projects on my first visit there. Akasha was completed 3 years ago.

Like Green School architecture, a new technique helps to make bamboo a lasting material, resistant to insects. Nau Schlosser uses silica to petrify bamboo instead of boric acid, which is used by Green school. More on the techniques at the end of this article.

 

Part of the experimental playground is the elaborate light design by Sacha Stone, who created the interior design.

Building close to nature is essential for Nau Schlossers architecture.

All design is inspired by nature, like in this new project below

After a computer-aided design process, construction is done fundamentally based on century-old Asian knowledge in Bamboo construction.

Check out Nau Schlossers website here: http://bioarc.co

See also my story and documentary film on Green School

(c) all photos by Joo Peter, architecture plans by (c) bioarc.co

About techniques to preserve bamboo

silica for petrfication here

traditional methods (water, fire) boric acid and lime water:

http://www.kitilfarm.com/bamboo_preserving.php

Film on a mobile version of  treatment with boric acid here

 

 

 

Gunung An

Onion legend Mark Kuan created a new peaceful retreat to enjoy with friends & guests. It’s Friday events called “Steam Sauna Friday” are the most inspirational Come-Together I experienced this season so far, master of pleasure Mark Kuan cares about delicious food, while his guests go for rooftop-sunset leisure, pool , nightly fireplace guitar jam session & more.

Mark Kuan celebrates cooking with his guests, as part of philosophy of life: Enjoy, share, care – all close to nature. His cooking classes are a great introduction to Asian & fusion food.
Gunung An is seated next to ricefields, forest and a small waterfall.

Arriving at Gunung An, visitors cross the jungle bridge to receive a welcoming blessing.

Steam sauna and Spa are seated in nature, floating in dragonfly sounds of the forest around.


Below: Friday night  magic with fire show by Aaron

Homepage of Gunung An here –  on Facebook here
Gunung An on Airbnb  –  See also story on  Onion Collective